Renewing textiles: Chemistry expertise enables sustainability transformation

The call for more sustainable alternatives within the fashion industry has never been clearer. Responsible brands are looking for ways to transition away from the widely used polyester and other synthetic fibers that rely on non-renewable fossil-based feedstocks. Cotton has earned a less favorable reputation due to its extensive use of arable land and water resources, rendering this natural fiber a less viable choice for future textiles.

Renewable cellulosic fibers have emerged as a solution. “Cellulose-based raw materials, such as viscose, have for some time already been an established part of the textile industry. However, there are sustainability concerns regarding the existing production methods. The industry is now focusing on innovative, emerging technologies for manufacturing man-made cellulosic fibers,” describes Riikka Timonen, Vice President of New Markets and Biomaterials at Kemira.

What sets cellulose apart as an exceptional raw material is not only its renewable, biodegradable, and safe nature, but also its versatility and potential for transformation. Harnessing this potential requires a deep chemistry know-how.

“Kemira has extensive expertise on cellulose modification, stemming from processes and products within the traditional pulp and paper industry. The chemical solutions necessary for manufacturing new cellulosic textile fibers are very similar to those used in papermaking.”

Weaving chemistry expertise into textile innovation

“Chemistry plays a big role in cellulosic textile manufacturing, all the way from processing the pulp to giving the fibers the needed functional properties, and even dealing with the wastewaters. Without chemistry, the new sustainable textile innovations would simply not be possible,” says Kaisa Karisalmi, Principal Scientist at Kemira R&D.

“And thanks to our long background with paper chemistry, we know the cellulosic matrix very well and have the needed expertise to treat the fibers and adjust their durability and other characteristics so that they meet the needs of textile production.” For example, Kemira has an array of hydrophobation agents that can be used to create resistance to moisture and water. These chemistries are based on renewable raw materials.

Kaisa acknowledges that chemicals have a bad name in the traditional textile industry, due to the past use of hazardous substances. Insufficient regulation and oversight, particularly in the mass-producing countries, have led to severe pollution. “The safety and sustainability of our products is at the core of everything that we do at Kemira. As the cellulosic textile value chain continues its evolution, we are well-equipped to aid the emerging companies in the field with our deep expertise in safety and compliance, drawn from our decades of experience,” Kaisa says.

Fiber-to-fiber fashion

Another sustainability challenge for the fashion industry to solve is in the end-of-life of worn-out clothing. The amount of textile waste is on a continuous rise and thus, a pressing concern. Currently, less than 1% of clothing is recycled and turned into new clothing globally.

The regulators are increasingly pushing for a change. For example, in EU countries, separate collection for textiles will be mandated by 2025. “Collecting textile waste is only the first step – the second part of the solution is to find ways that enable true circularity and allow the industry to use the recycled material efficiently in high-value end-products, such as new clothing. Here, chemistry can make a difference,” says Riikka.

The recycling of paper and board into new fiber-based products is a circular success story. The experience from cellulosic fiber-to-fiber recycling is valuable in the more complicated textile recycling process. Textiles are not monomaterials, which adds to the challenge. Chemistry is an instrumental part of textile recycling, from breaking down the material to its components to creating the needed properties for the recycled raw material so that it can be integrated back into the production cycle.

“For instance, our chemicals can help in the decolorization of textile waste, which is a crucial step in enabling the reuse of the material in various applications. Chemicals help also improve the purity and hygiene of the recycled material.”

Ensuring biodegradability in nonwovens

Outside of catwalks, there’s interest in renewable cellulose fibers as a raw material also in a different domain – nonwoven fabrics. These fabrics are used in various everyday products, such as hygiene items, wipes and towels, and filters.

Nonwoven textiles are manufactured by bonding or interlocking fibers together instead of knitting or weaving them. Nevertheless, chemistry has an elemental role when replacing synthetic fibers such as polyester and polypropylene with cellulosic fibers in nonwoven products. “We are working on renewable chemical alternatives to the existing fossil-based solutions in nonwoven manufacturing. A good example of this is finding renewable replacements for latex-based binders,” explains Kaisa.

Cellulose-based nonwovens can be used in various everyday applications, for example as wet wipes, tabletops, tea bags, or absorbent pads in food packaging. These products require specific properties for their intended end use, ranging from hydrophobicity to absorbency. Here’s where chemistry comes in. For example, wet strength chemistry is key to creating durability that is essential in many of these end uses, to prevent the material from dissolving in use when it’s wet.

“Simultaneously, we need to always ensure smart end-of-life options for the product. Cellulose-based nonwovens offer a distinctive advantage in terms of biodegradability over synthetic materials. Any treatment done needs to always ensure that the product maintains its compostability and recyclability or that it can be flushed.”

Decades of know-how on how to treat cellulose

“We at Kemira have decades of know-how in cellulose-based products and processes. Now is the opportune moment to extend that knowledge into new domains and support the textile industry in its sustainability transformation,” says Riikka.

Cellulose is the most abundant renewable raw material on Earth, and textiles are one the most rapidly growing end-use applications for it. “In a decades’ time, I envision that the production of man-made cellulosic fibers will have superseded the production of synthetic textile fibers and helped also in the reduction of cotton cultivation. As technologies are now evolving and novel innovations arise, the entire value chain faces the huge task of upscaling. There’s a lot of work ahead, and with chemistry as the key enabler, it’s exciting to be part of it!”